Inside the Sydney Sweeney Ad: What "Great Jeans" Reveals About Frictionless Media

Jamie Cohen and Destinee Day trace the American Eagle "great jeans" ad back to Brooke Shields, racehorse theory, and the birth of motion pictures.

Why Did Jamie Move Away from His "Doom Is Coming" Talks?

Jamie shifted his approach after watching it fail his own students. He'd built a reputation on describing, in detail, "what the thumping beat of fascism sounds like in the distance." It works in a classroom. It works right up until the room needs to know what comes next, and by the end of last semester several of his students left in tears with nothing to do about what they'd just learned.

"Friction maxing" is his answer to that gap. It's the same underlying analysis, but built around a second question after the diagnosis: now that you see it, what do you actually do? Jamie is taking the talk on the road specifically because he thinks it's time to start handing people tools, not just dread.

What's the Difference Between Old Media Literacy and the New Kind?

Traditional media literacy is transactional: a checklist you run against a piece of information from the outside. Is the source reputable. Is the author credentialed. Is this a newscast or an opinion show. Destinee describes this as exactly what she was taught in journalism school, an if-this-then-that decision tree you could apply to evaluate whatever you were looking at.

Jamie's point is that the tree stops working once the internet becomes ambient, meaning it's no longer something you visit or transact with. You're nested inside it. This podcast episode, published on the internet, discussed on the internet, is itself part of the same media apparatus it's trying to describe. There's no outside position left to evaluate from, which is exactly what the old checklist assumed existed.

What Is the Escape Room Model of Media Literacy?

The escape room model treats media literacy as something you use continuously inside an environment, not a skill you apply once from outside it. Jamie revisits the metaphor from the previous episode, credited to his wife Nikki: you're in a room full of lasers you can't see. Somewhere is a pile of dust. You throw it into the air, and the lasers become visible.

The real value of the metaphor is in the follow-up questions it forces: where is the dust in this environment, how often do you have to use it, do the lasers move, and do you have to hand the dust to someone else in the room with you. That's the shape of the new media literacy Jamie is building this whole talk around.

What Are "the Borderlands," and Why Does Jamie Say They've Dissolved?

The borderlands are a term from Jamie's talks going back to 2015 through 2017, describing the space between online and offline life where a lot of extremism used to take hold. His argument now is that the borderlands haven't just widened. They've disappeared entirely.

There's no longer a line between the internet and offline reality to stand near. The internet shapes offline reality directly now, and offline events get built, from the start, to become internet content. That collapse is the setup for the entire Sydney Sweeney case study that follows.

What Is the Sydney Sweeney American Eagle "Great Jeans" Campaign?

In September 2025, American Eagle released a campaign tagged "Sydney Sweeney has great jeans," starring the Euphoria actress in multiple ad cuts. One version is straightforward: Sweeney talks through the quality of the denim in front of a mirror. It's the version American Eagle still runs.

The other version is the one the brand has since pulled. In it, Sweeney lies back on a pillow as the camera moves up her body while she talks about what "genes," the biological term, do for you. Jamie's read is that Sweeney herself had been a fairly politically ambiguous celebrity before this campaign. Her job, up to that point, was selling Sydney Sweeney. This ad is what changed that.

Why Does the Ad Echo Brooke Shields' 1980s Calvin Klein Campaign?

The pulled cut of the Sweeney ad deliberately mirrors Brooke Shields' Calvin Klein campaign from the 1980s, in which Shields, then fifteen or sixteen, appeared in a similarly suggestive pose that was controversial at the time. Sweeney reclining on the pillow as the camera pans up her body is the same visual structure, restaged for 2025.

Jamie's point isn't that the reference is accidental. It's that the ad is built, shot by shot, to invoke a specific reaction, and the Shields echo is one more layer of that design.

What Did Trump Say About "Good Genes," and Why Does It Matter Here?

The ad dropped while Donald Trump was making "good genes" remarks at campaign rallies, including one in Bemidji, Minnesota, that Jamie reads directly on the episode. Jamie is careful to define the term for anyone unfamiliar with it: eugenics is selective breeding aimed at producing a "superior" version of a species, a concept the Nazis weaponized in the 1940s in the pursuit of a supposed Aryan master race.

"You have good genes, you know that, right? … the racehorse theory. You think we're so different? You have good genes in Minnesota."

Donald Trump, campaign rally · Bemidji, Minnesota

The ad's tagline plays on the double meaning of "genes" against that exact political backdrop. Jamie's framing throughout is descriptive, not accusatory: he's naming a documented lineage between a marketing campaign, a specific rally quote, and a term with a specific and ugly history, and asking what it means that all three showed up in public at the same time.

What Does Racehorse Theory Have to Do With the Invention of Motion Pictures?

Racehorse theory traces back to Leland Stanford, who wanted to breed racehorses selectively to shorten the years it took to raise a horse profitable enough to race. To settle a bet about whether a running horse ever has all four hooves off the ground at once, Stanford funded photographer Eadweard Muybridge, who in the 1880s built a rig of roughly twelve to twenty-four cameras along a track, triggered in sequence as a horse ran past.

That sequence of still photographs, looped, became the first motion picture. It's also the reason film runs at 24 frames per second, doubled from Muybridge's original count. Muybridge later demonstrated the work to Thomas Edison, who developed it into what we now know as motion pictures. Jamie's point is that the technical foundation of film has a eugenics project sitting directly underneath it, from the very first loop of a running horse.

How Does This History Connect to the US Department of Labor and Department of Defense?

Roughly 150 years after Muybridge, Jamie points to the US Department of Labor posting AI-generated imagery to its official account: blonde-haired, blue-eyed men styled in a way Jamie says visually echoes Nazi propaganda from the 1940s. He pairs that with a post from the Department of Defense, under Secretary Pete Hegseth's office, captioned "SecDef has great genes," and a widely circulated moment of Trump on the White House roof captioned with a reference back to the Sweeney ad itself.

Jamie's read is that these posts openly assume the audience's job is to react. The ad, the rally quote, and the government social posts are all functioning inside the same design logic: identity and biology as content built to provoke a response.

Who Made the Sydney Sweeney Ad, and What's the Media-Literacy Angle?

The creative leadership behind the campaign has direct ties to Abercrombie & Fitch. American Eagle's current CFO previously held the same role at Abercrombie, the company profiled in the documentary White Hot: The Rise & Fall of Abercrombie & Fitch, about longtime CEO Mike Jeffries and the brand's exclusionary marketing under his leadership. Jamie also credits researcher Jenny Chang for surfacing an interview in which an American Eagle executive asked Sweeney how far she wanted to take the ad's suggestiveness.

"Take it as far as you want."

Sydney Sweeney, reportedly, when asked how far to take the ad

Jamie calls this layer, tracing who made the ad and why, the easy part. It's the traditional media-literacy checklist doing exactly what it's built to do. The harder problem is what comes next: the ad is designed so that every available response, outrage, mockery, defense, sharing, still counts as engagement, and engagement is what feeds the system that targets you with more of the same.

What Is the "30 Seconds of Silence" Exercise, and Why Does It Matter?

The exercise is exactly what it sounds like: Jamie has Destinee, and by extension the audience, sit in complete silence and non-reaction for thirty seconds, live on the recording. It's the same exercise he runs with his students, and he describes it as deliberately uncomfortable.

His point is that refusing to react is itself the countermeasure. The ad's entire design assumes engagement of some kind. Choosing not to engage, even briefly, is an act of friction against a system built to remove all of it. Jamie calls it deep listening, and says it's the closest thing to picking up the dust in the escape room: it doesn't make the lasers disappear, but it makes them visible enough to navigate.

Why Does Destinee Say Non-Reaction Is a Form of Power?

From the marketing side, Destinee explains that extreme reactions, positive or negative, are exactly what make a person easy and cheap to sell to. Sharing an ad, mocking it, DMing a friend in outrage, or piling onto an angry comment thread all generate the same kind of data, and that data is what lets an advertiser sort someone into a category and target them more precisely.

She also draws a generational line: younger audiences increasingly mistake reacting online, sharing, commenting, expressing outrage, for actual civic participation, in place of deeper action like contacting a representative. Her conclusion is direct: silence and non-reaction give a marketer nothing to work with.

"It makes it incredibly hard and makes it even more expensive for me to sell ads about you."

Destinee Day, on what non-reaction denies a marketer

That's the whole mechanism, from the other side of the business.

What Is "Friction Maxxing," and Where Does the Term Come From?

Friction maxxing is Jamie's name for deliberately choosing inconvenience inside systems engineered to remove it. The term itself comes from an article by Catherine Gesser Morton, published in January, which argues for adding inconvenience back into daily digital behavior on purpose. Jamie credits her directly and says he'll go deeper into what friction maxing means in practice later in this series.

In this episode, the clearest version of it is the thirty seconds of silence: a small, specific refusal to give a frictionless system the one thing it's built to extract.

  • Jamie is retiring his "doom is coming" media literacy talks after watching them leave students without any next step, some in tears by the end of last semester.

  • Traditional media literacy is transactional, a checklist run from outside the media environment. The new media literacy has to work from inside it, because the internet is now ambient.

  • The escape room metaphor, credited to Nikki, models this shift: media literacy as continuous navigation of invisible lasers, not a one-time evaluation.

  • The "borderlands" between online and offline life, a term from Jamie's talks since 2015, have dissolved. There is no longer a clean line to stand on either side of.

  • American Eagle's September 2025 "Sydney Sweeney has great jeans" campaign ran multiple cuts, including one pulled version echoing Brooke Shields' 1980s Calvin Klein ad.

  • The campaign landed during a stretch of Trump rally speeches about "good genes" and racehorse theory, including a specific quote from a Bemidji, Minnesota rally.

  • Racehorse theory traces to Leland Stanford, whose eugenics-driven horse breeding project funded Eadweard Muybridge's 1880s stop-motion photography, the technical origin of motion pictures.

  • The US Department of Labor and the Department of Defense both posted AI-generated imagery Jamie says visually echoes 1940s propaganda, in the same window as the ad's release.

  • The ad's creative lineage runs through Abercrombie & Fitch's former CFO and an interview, surfaced by researcher Jenny Chang, in which Sweeney was told to "take it as far as you want."

  • Identifying who made an ad and why is the easy layer of media literacy. The harder layer is recognizing that any reaction to the ad, including outrage, feeds the same engagement system.

  • Jamie and Destinee demonstrate the countermeasure live: thirty seconds of total silence and non-reaction as an act of deliberate friction.

  • Destinee explains the marketing math directly: extreme reactions make a person easy and cheap to target, while non-reaction denies the data that makes that targeting possible.

  • The term "friction maxing" comes from an article by Catherine Gesser Morton, published in January, arguing for deliberately adding inconvenience back into digital life.

Why did Jamie move away from his "doom is coming" talks?

Because they left audiences with dread and no next step. By the end of last semester, several of his students cried, and "friction maxing" is his shift toward giving people tools instead of just weight.

What's the difference between old and new media literacy?

Old media literacy is transactional, a checklist you run from outside the media you're evaluating. New media literacy has to work from inside an ambient internet, since there's no longer an outside position to evaluate from.

What is the escape room model of media literacy?

Jamie's metaphor, credited to Nikki, for treating media literacy as continuous and situational: you're in a room full of invisible lasers, and you keep finding and using the dust that makes them visible.

What are "the borderlands"?

A term from Jamie's talks dating to 2015 through 2017 for the space between online and offline life. He argues that space has now dissolved entirely, since online and offline are no longer separable.

What is the Sydney Sweeney American Eagle ad?

A September 2025 campaign tagged "Sydney Sweeney has great jeans," with multiple cuts, including a pulled version echoing Brooke Shields' 1980s Calvin Klein ad as the camera moves up Sweeney's body while she references "genes."

Why does the ad echo the Brooke Shields Calvin Klein ad?

Sweeney's pose and the camera's movement deliberately restage Shields' 1980s campaign, made when Shields was fifteen or sixteen and was itself controversial at the time.

What did Trump say about "good genes"?

At a rally in Bemidji, Minnesota, Trump said: "You have good genes, you know that, right? … the racehorse theory. You think we're so different? You have good genes in Minnesota." Jamie cites this as the political backdrop the ad's tagline landed against.

What is racehorse theory, and how does it connect to motion pictures?

Racehorse theory traces to Leland Stanford's eugenics-driven horse breeding project, which funded Eadweard Muybridge's 1880s stop-motion photography of a running horse, the technical origin of motion pictures and the source of film's 24-frames-per-second standard.

How does this connect to recent government social media posts?

Jamie points to the US Department of Labor and the Department of Defense both posting AI-generated imagery he says visually echoes 1940s propaganda, around the same time as the ad and Trump's rally remarks.

Who made the Sydney Sweeney ad, and what's the media-literacy angle?

American Eagle's CFO previously held the same role at Abercrombie & Fitch, and researcher Jenny Chang surfaced an interview in which Sweeney was told to "take it as far as you want." Jamie calls tracing this the easy layer of media literacy; the harder layer is that any reaction still feeds the engagement system.

What is the "30 seconds of silence" exercise?

A live demonstration where Jamie has Destinee, and the audience, go completely silent and non-reactive for thirty seconds, modeling non-engagement as a direct act of friction against a system designed to extract a reaction.

Why does Destinee say non-reaction denies a marketer data?

Extreme reactions, positive or negative, make someone easy and cheap to categorize and target. Silence generates no data, which makes that person harder and more expensive to sell to.

What is "friction maxing"?

Jamie's term for deliberately choosing inconvenience inside frictionless systems, drawn from an article by Catherine Gesser Morton published in January.

00:01

Retiring the "doom is coming" talk

Jamie opens by admitting his usual approach, describing the coming doom without offering next steps, left some students in tears by the end of last semester.

01:13

Introducing "friction maxxing"

Jamie frames this new talk as a deliberate break from his old approach: giving people tools, not just dread, starting with the definition of transactional media literacy.

03:41

The escape room, revisited

Jamie returns to the lasers-and-dust metaphor from the previous episode, credited to Nikki, and previews two 2025-2026 case studies of frictionless architecture in the offline world.

05:03

Destinee asks for the old-school comparison

Destinee asks Jamie to define what agency and media literacy looked like in the transactional era, before getting into the new version.

05:35

The Lamborghini problem

Jamie compares traditional media literacy to being handed the keys to a high-performance car: a real skill, but one that assumes everyone wants to drive the same way.

07:25

Destinee's journalism-school checklist

Destinee describes the if-this-then-that decision tree she was taught: is the source reputable, is the author credentialed, is it a newscast or an opinion show.

08:12

The borderlands have dissolved, and the Sydney Sweeney campaign begins

Jamie argues the line between online and offline life has dissolved, then introduces American Eagle's September 2025 "great jeans" campaign and Sweeney's shift from a politically ambiguous celebrity to the center of a controversy.

10:38

Multiple ad cuts, the Brooke Shields echo, and eugenics defined

Jamie breaks down the ad's two versions, including the pulled cut that restages Brooke Shields' 1980s Calvin Klein campaign, then defines eugenics and its Nazi history directly.

12:53

The Trump rally quote and racehorse theory

Jamie reads Trump's "good genes" and racehorse theory remarks from a Bemidji, Minnesota rally and traces the theory back to Leland Stanford.

14:59

Eadweard Muybridge and the birth of film

Jamie connects Stanford's horse breeding project to Muybridge's 1880s stop-motion photography, the technical origin of motion pictures.

16:28

The Department of Labor and Department of Defense posts

Jamie points to AI-generated imagery posted by the Department of Labor and a "SecDef has great genes" post from the Department of Defense.

17:22

The Abercrombie & Fitch connection

Jamie traces the ad's creative lineage to a former Abercrombie & Fitch CFO now at American Eagle.

18:19

Jenny Chang's research and "take it as far as you want"

Jamie credits researcher Jenny Chang with surfacing the interview in which Sweeney was told to "take it as far as you want," then sets up the thirty-second silence exercise.

19:39

Thirty seconds of silence

Jamie leads a live, on-air demonstration of complete non-reaction as an act of friction against the ad's design.

21:27

Destinee on marketing and false civic action

Destinee connects online reacting to a generational mistake about civic participation, then explains from the marketing side why extreme reactions make someone easier to target.

24:06

Naming "friction maxing"

Jamie ties the exercise back to the term "friction maxing" and flags that he'll break the next two case studies into separate episodes.

26:26

Wrapping up and teasing Kylie Jenner

After a brief real-world interruption, Jamie and Destinee agree to close this episode here and pick up Kylie Jenner's Meta Ray-Bans next.

31:03

Crediting Catherine Gesser Morton and previewing wearable frictionless tech

Jamie credits Catherine Gesser Morton's January article as the source of "friction maxing" and previews what frictionless architecture looks like as wearable technology, ahead of the Kylie Jenner and Kalshi episodes.

About the Hosts

Jamie Cohen

Jamie Cohen is a media scholar, professor, writer, and expert on internet culture, online extremism, memes, media literacy, and the manosphere.

Website:jamesncohen.com
Substack:New Media Homework

Destinee Day

Destinee Day is a marketing strategist and founder of Rudy & Company. Her work focuses on branding, digital strategy, communications, online influence, and responsible marketing.

Website:rudyandcompany.com

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